Match of the week

Fresh prawns and Greco di Tufo

Fresh prawns and Greco di Tufo

Odd though it sounds it's unusual to find a chef who's really knowledgeable about wine let alone one who's involved in creating his own list. Sam Harris of Zucca is one of the rare exceptions and the other day showed me some of the wines he's excited about.

One was an intense, pristine 2010 Greco di Tufo from Pietracupa in Campania - a bright minerally white with a lovely citrussy zing that Sam reckoned would go well with simply prepared shellfish.

To illustrate his point he got one of his chefs to peel a couple of prawns that had just arrived from Sicily and served them with a sprinkle of seasalt and a trickle of fresh, fruity olive oil. The combination was perfect. (Note: if he'd added a squeeze of lemon to the prawns it wouldn't have been as good. The wine did that job for him.)

We reckoned it would also be great with grilled swordfish and seabass.

Pasta with pesto and Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi

Pasta with pesto and Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi

This past week has reminded me yet again what a great match Italian whites are for food. Their lack of obvious character means they tend not to stand out in a tasting but they explode into life with a dish.

The first pairing, I’ve already mentioned in my review of the River Café - Poggio al Tesoro Vermentino Solosole 2007 was just the perfect fresh foil for a salad of Castelluccio lentils , ricotta di Bufala and chilli but I equally enjoyed a pairing I tried at home of a 2007 Loretello Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi from Cantine Politi (from Vino in Topsham) with a plate of spaghetti with fresh home-made pesto (the classic kind with basil rather than one of the more inventive new variations).

I personally find pesto goes much better with whites than with reds which it seems to coarsen. Gavi di Gavi is another good match.

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